hf1

OBV

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ems
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Re: OBV

Postby ems » Thu Jan 21, 2010 11:02 am

Lyocell is the process name, and is sold under the name Tencel. The difference being between the *rayon* version and the *bamboo* version is one is completely chemically manufactured, and the other is mechanically manufactured using less invasive chemicals that are extracted and re-used every time.

There is one huge plant in China that holds the patent for bamboo manufacturing, they have their own plantations etc..most of the bamboo velour bought from china comes from this plant. It would be almost impossible to buy any fabric on the market these days that didnt have a 100 cert, but just because it has the 100 cert doesnt mean that humane conditions are adhered to for the 2000 plus workers at the plant ;) It may say on their website that they understand about humane welfare, but ones interpretation of someone elses words can often be misleading. Marketing blurb can be a load of ****** sometimes ;) Anything to make us feel safe and secure with the brand.

All of the fibre manufactured in that plant have the Oeko-Tex 100 certifice as the finished product has no traces of the chemicals they used to make it. Thats all the oekotex 100 is really.. a few samples every year sent to zurich for testing .. . It doesn't say how the workers are looked after or any other ethical or humane waffle. The huge chinese plants are renowned for cheap and corrupt labour and I am extremely happy that there are now other companies are trying to sprout up to combat this problem, as so far we have not had much choice. We can all buy it from different reps or sellers, but if it says made in china, we know where its from.

Examples of questionable claims:

Claim: Organic bamboo fiber clothing is naturally anti-microbial… It …prevents bacteria from cultivating on it.
Fact: Rayon, regardless of input (wood pulp or bamboo) and whether organic or not, doesn’t mildew as easily as some other natural fabrics. If “anti-microbial” is intended to convey the characteristic of preventing bacteria growth (mildew resistance), then this would be true -of all rayons, not just bamboo.

Claim: Bamboo apparel is thermal regulating, anti-fungal, anti-static and will keep you cooler, drier, warmer and odor free.
Fact: This is characteristic of rayon, regardless of whether made by wood or bamboo.

Claim: Bamboo is grown without pesticides.
Fact: Trees used to make rayon are also grown organically without pesticides. The only trees sprayed with pesticides are fruit and nut trees and this wood is not likely to be used in rayon production because the lumber harvested at the end of the tree’s life cycle is highly coveted. Fruit and nut lumbers are used in expensive furniture, veneers and consumer products. Furthermore, it is not possible for residual pesticides to remain in the fiber at the end of the rayon process.

Claim: Bamboo is hypoallergenic, breathable, and absorbent.
Fact: Again, true of all rayons.

Claim: Growing bamboo improves soil quality and helps rebuild eroded soil. The extensive root system of bamboo holds soil together, prevents soil erosion, and retains water in the watershed.
Fact: This is also true of trees used to make rayon.

Claim: Bamboo grows naturally without the need for agricultural tending and large diesel exhaust-spewing tractors to plant seeds and cultivate the soil.
Fact: Also true of trees used to make rayon.

Claim: Bamboo fabrics and clothing can be manufactured and produced without any chemical additives
Fact: This is wildly untrue of any rayon regardless of the material used for the cellulose base.

Claim: Bamboo grows rapidly and naturally without any pesticides, herbicides or fertilizers.
Fact: On the face of it, this is all true. As a practical matter, the rise of bamboo’s popularity has led to the hazards common to commercialization. For example, clearing vast tracts for bamboo production has contributed to deforestation, rendering a mono-culture at the expense of biodiversity. Similarly, acreage formerly used for food production has given way to bamboo cultivation. What’s more, herbicides are increasingly used to reduce competing foliage.

EDITED TO SAY THAT "MOST" instead of "all" of the bamboo fabric from china is from this factory, although its the only one currently making a velour, others do make interlock and bamboo linen, and yarns for towelling etc.
Last edited by ems on Thu Jan 21, 2010 11:58 am, edited 2 times in total.

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beffys
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Re: OBV

Postby beffys » Thu Jan 21, 2010 11:36 am

I think I partly just love the idea that lyocell is a spinning process. So mechanical like you say. So much of it is down to marketing talk that rayon has a bad reputation, but BV doesn't, so consumer / product perception.

The US Federal Trade Commission defines Lyocell as "a cellulose fabric that is obtained by an organic solvent spinning process". It classifies the fibre as a sub-category of rayon.


Tell me where I can get some tencel. :giggle: I'd love to see how it dyes up. :wink: Great that there are EU alternatives, regardless of the pricing. You get tencel yarns too, but I thought they were from eucalyptus trees not bamboo. :)

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ems
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Re: OBV

Postby ems » Thu Jan 21, 2010 11:50 am

Oooo I just was reading that Australia now has a bamboo fabric manufacturing plant too!!! You can buy tencel very very cheaply in fabric shops.. but it tneds to be a mix. When I'm next in town (ours does tencel - but already coloured), I'll go read the label on the bolts and see where they get it from! I've only ever seen it woven, not in a knitted form.. but its worth a look ;)

Totally agree beth.. I do think we have gotten into an age where fashion of fabrics is aboiut demand from the customer to sell them what they think they want, bamboo since 2002 when it was first developed into fabric as been majorly overhyped and there are so many other fabrics out there which are just as nice and alot cheaper and easier to process etc. In a textile mag I get , one guy had a process to make fabric out of coco husk ;) LOL soy, bamboo, corn are all the range now .. but it goes in cycles.. things come in and out.. silk was the thing a few years ago... all the technical fabrics like pertex and goretex etc etc..

Tips!!!!
Go to your fabric shop.. find what your after, if its elastic.. ribbon etc.. they tend to keep the stuff on the cards or spools.. look up the manufacturer on the internet and get a direct price. Thats what I did for my elastic and some other bits and bibs.. our fabric shop were sellign the elastic at 45p a meter.. chlorine resistant 10 cord elastic etc etc.. so I looked it up online and got a few bolts of it for £11 for 75 metres.. obviously I don't do it often as I wnat to support my local shops but if you need to buy things in bulk for resale.. retail is not the way to do it generally.

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rhead
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Re: OBV

Postby rhead » Thu Jan 21, 2010 12:29 pm

I've seen some nappies made with Tencel over here - is that basically the same kind of fabric as BV but made with wood fibres rather than bamboo fibres?

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ems
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Re: OBV

Postby ems » Thu Jan 21, 2010 12:57 pm

yup :)

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Soupdragon
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Re: OBV

Postby Soupdragon » Thu Jan 21, 2010 1:08 pm

ems wrote:Oooo I just was reading that Australia now has a bamboo fabric manufacturing plant too!!!


<Ears prick up> That sounds interesting; I know someone who might be interested in that. ;) :giggle:

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ems
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Re: OBV

Postby ems » Thu Jan 21, 2010 8:05 pm

ehheheee, I'll go peek through my browsing history and try to find it :)

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Soupdragon
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Re: OBV

Postby Soupdragon » Thu Jan 21, 2010 8:05 pm

I really appreciate that, Emma, thank you. :hug:

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ems
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Re: OBV

Postby ems » Sun Jan 24, 2010 9:16 am

I cant seem to find it anywhere now!! I'm sure I'll come across it again though .. sorry..

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