Getting sewing machine tension right.

[clothmama]

More slightly dopey questions - feel free to answer in 'Sewing for dummies' mode

Can some one explain the tension to me? Mine has been set on 4 as that is how I got it and it worked! I have since turned it to 2 to go through thick fabrics as the lady in the shop said 'turning tension down' will help machine go through. Was this down I turned it or up??? What is a 'normal' setting? What does it actually do / affect etc? Can I change it as I'm going ie turn 'down' just before I get to a hill of thicker fabric then back up on normal thickness once off the 'hill'?

Why does the bobbin cotton get all tangled sometimes?

I can't seem to get very nice looking zig zag, what should my settings be on?

Sorry for the lots of questions, hope someone can help me!

More slightly dopey questions - feel free to answer in 'Sewing for dummies' mode

Can some one explain the tension to me? Mine has been set on 4 as that is how I got it and it worked! I have since turned it to 2 to go through thick fabrics as the lady in the shop said 'turning tension down' will help machine go through. Was this down I turned it or up??? What is a 'normal' setting? What does it actually do / affect etc? Can I change it as I'm going ie turn 'down' just before I get to a hill of thicker fabric then back up on normal thickness once off the 'hill'?

Why does the bobbin cotton get all tangled sometimes?

I can't seem to get very nice looking zig zag, what should my settings be on?

Sorry for the lots of questions, hope someone can help me!

Yes, lower numbers are usually lower tension. You can check by feeling it though - turn it right down and tug the thread, it should come through easily, then turn it up and try again, you should be able to feel resistance.

If the tension is right, the stitches will look right - even on both sides. If you can see thread from one side on the other, then you have a tension issue. Also if you get skipped stitches, that usually means a tension issue. If it looks good, then you're fine. Yes, you can change tension as you are going along if necessary. In fact, give it a go on a trial piece of fabric and see the difference it makes as you change the tension.

Bobbin tangles can be caused by tension problems, but also if you're threaded it the wrong way (check your instruction book) and if there is lint stuck in there (give it a good clean).

Hard to tell what is wrong with your zigzag stitch without seeing it. Can you describe what is wrong? It could well be tension.

The other thing to bear in mind is that you may need different size needles for different fabrics. Again, this is trial and error to some degree, but basically bigger needle for thicker fabrics.
Hope that helps

[clothmama]

Thanks Vic! i actually think I may have had my cotton in my bobbin the wrong way if that makes sense as now I've changed it so it's coming out the other way it doesn't seem to be tangling! I'll have a play with the tension then. I think it must be pretty good tbh as the stitches are pretty even and since turning down to 2 for thick bits I've not had it skip stitches on thick bits which it did on my first project!

I never change the tension on my sewing machine (but do on my overlocker depending on the stitch I want)
*A handy site for sewing questions
http://www.thesewingforum.co.uk/index.php

[clothmama]

I never change the tension on my sewing machine (but do on my overlocker depending on the stitch I want)

So what do you do to get over thick bits?

*A handy site for sewing questions
http://www.thesewingforum.co.uk/index.php

Now why would I be wanting to go there where I dont' know anyone and would feel shy when I have so many sewing stars here

Thanks I'll have a look there may be some patterns etc!

If your working on a thick bit/seam/hump.. and the foot looks like its sitting on a slope,or foot jumps off the work as you try to sew it, you need to put a "shim" behind or by the side or your work to bring the foot level. You may have a few with the sewing machine, or you can use folded up cardboard to get the right thickness.. anything basically apart from metal! If some came with the machine, they just like small rectangular pieces of plastic in varying thickness's. It will help keep your line and your stitches evenly spaced as you have have set on the machine. You raise the presser foot, put your work in where you want to begin sewing, place the shim where you need it to keep the foot level with your work and lower the presser foot. You may not need it for the whole seam.

If your already on a seam and your coming up to another seam that is a lot thicker, you can also use a shim. As you approach a thick seam or other hump, when the needle is in the fabric, lift the presser foot and insert a shim under the presser foot, behind the needle to help level out the foot. I often use a sewing machine needle case as a shim when sewing over thick seams in denim. If you keep the foot level it allows the fabric to feed under the foot and over the foot dogs evenly and will prevent jam-ups .. when the machine decides it wont go over a hump because the presser foot is uneven and it doesnt press the fabric down onto the foot dogs.

Here's the foot on an angle, the work could slip out of the foot as there's not consistent pressure holding it down....


Here's a shim..


Here's the the presser foot with even pressure with a shim under the foot, behind the work...



Also if you dont adjust the tension for thick seams , even if its just for a few stitches, the top stitch will be too tight and it wont lock in the middle of the middle of your material.

A really easy way to test your tension for the fabric is to get two different colours of thread one for the top and bottom.. sew along the bias of a scrap piece of the material your going to be using. Take the material in your hands about 3" apart and give the seam a good sharp and forcefull tug with a hand at each end of the seam.. like you mean to break it

If the top tension is too tight for the material it will have broken and left the bottom colour intact.
If the the bottom tension is too tight, the bottom colour will snap and the top colour will be intact.
If the tension is perfectly balanced, both will break!

A graphical explanation which has been my easiest to teach ppl about tension...is this

I never change the tension on my sewing machine (but do on my overlocker depending on the stitch I want)

So what do you do to get over thick bits?

I really don't find any problems with thick bits, which is why I would rarely play with the tension. The thick bits
hold the stitch well, and I don't have preferential pulling of the stitch to either side of the fabric.

Wow Ems! That was very informative! I'm just getting used to my machine now, I used to really hate it but I realised a few weeks ago I just had a lot of tension problems (worst was when all the thread gathered and tangled underneath!) and when I was making breastpads I had to have a good play around with the tension and stitch length to get it right.

Tory, do you still have instructions for your machine? I know it sounds a bit "duh" but I never looked at mine and then realised it gave a whole section on different tensions, stitch lengths and needles sizes for different fabrics and stitches! Needle size is important too, especially if you are sewing something very thick or thin. I tried to sew denim and cordory together once and broke 4 needles before I gave up!

[clothmama]

WOW thanks Ems, that really is very very clear and now I think i get it! I never thought of putting a 'shim' in, I'll hae to see what I have to use, and you are right that is pretty much when I get problems! I think I'll sticky this as that is some very useful advice! Thank you!

Tory, do you still have instructions for your machine?

No I dont' that is part of the problem (I posted separately about it!) as the machine I have is on loan from my neighbour and her MIL had bought it 2nd hand from somewhere so no destructions for me